Two years before getting pregnant I started surfing. I got so passionate about it, I surfed almost every day. As soon as I got more confident at it, I was off to new surf spots, reef breaks and big swells. I even wrote ¨Let´s go big waves!¨ on the back of my long board.
And I was really all for the big waves. I´d drop anything to surf a swell (a swell is when we have bigger waves hitting the coast and it may last from 1 to 4 days, more or less). I had fun with my wipe outs too. I really loved it when it was huge and I could feel my whole body do a summer salt underwater – COOL.
Then I got pregnant, which made me surf more carefully. I still had a go once when I was 6 months pregnant.
But surely too, after having Luísa, I became such a wuss. I no longer went for the bigger waves, I no longer had fun with my wipe outs, I was more scared and getting hit by my board more often (because in surfing, hesitating is the biggest cause of injures with your own board). I no longer went for just any size of wave.
I heard before from other women that they start driving more carefully when they become moms, that we do everything differently, more cautiously.